Winter Cover Crops 101
As we close to the end of another
growing season, it is a good time to look back at the past season, and think
about next year’s garden. Did you have
too many weeds, still battling heavy clay soils, and felt the battle-of-the-bugs
was lost? Me
too! If you’re like me, I would have
loved to have had a better handle on just one of these problems, but with lack
of time, did nothing. So what is my
solution for nest year? - A winter cover
crop.
Cover crops, not knew to most
farmers, have not been well utilized by home gardeners. Cover crops are plants grown to cover the
soil during idle periods. Gardeners usually plant cover crops in the fall for
winter cover, but some gardeners also use cover crops as part of a summer
rotation. In the spring, when cover crops are tilled into the soil, they supply
plant nutrients and organic matter. When
Cover cropped are turned into the soil they are often
referred to as “green manures” Even the smallest garden will benefit from the
use of cover crops. They provide a number of advantages to the otherwise
wasteful use of space during your garden's off-season. Cover crops can:
1.
Control Erosion – Heavy fall and spring rains, along with dry winter winds can carrying
away small surface particles off topsoil. A thick stand of a cover crop
protects the soil surface from wind and its roots hold soil in place against
water.
2.
Suppress Weed - Cover crops act as a "living
mulch", reducing sunlight from reaching the soil surface and subsequently allowing
weed seeds to germinate and grow. Also some grasses, such as annual rye, have
alleopathic properties that prevent weed seeds from germinating and suppress
weed seedlings around the root zone of the rye.
3.
Fix Nitrogen– Legume cover crops, inoculated
with their specific rhizobium bacteria, will take nitrogen out of the air
(present in the soil) and store it in their plant tissues via nodules on the
roots of the legume. When the legumes are turned over in the spring the
nitrogen becomes available.
4.
Improve Soil
structure –
Cover crops improve soil tilth, texture, moisture-holding ability, and ease of
tillage. Added organic matter will help to develop of a wide range of soil
microorganisms and earthworms, and help to retain plant nutrients in the soil.
5.
Reduce pest
Insects -
Cover crops encourage beneficial insect populations, often minimizing need for
other insect control measures.
What to Plant?
Success in the growth of cover crops
requires proper selection of a cover crop, correct
timing of seeding and good management techniques. There are many traditional
cover crops to select from, including annual ryegrass, winter rye, winter
wheat, oats, white clover, sweet clover, hairy vetch and buckwheat.
There are three basic types of cover
crops, Legumes, grasses and other boardleaves. Legumes
have the ability to symbiotically associate with certain soil bacteria, rhizobium,
that fix atmospheric nitrogen. Normally, no commercial fertilizers are
necessary to produce abundant biomass from legumes when compared with grasses.
Legumes normally produce organic matter higher in N content than grasses. As a
result, organic matter originating from legumes usually decomposes at a faster
rate than that from grasses. When planting legume cover crops
such as clover, vetch, and soybeans, seeds should be inoculated before
planting. Inoculum contains beneficial bacteria that the legume needs to
fix nitrogen in the soil. In most cases, these bacteria are not found naturally
in the soil
Cereal and grasses can grow quickly,
even in cool conditions and usually produce more biomass than legumes under adequate
fertility levels. Grasses can be easier to grow than legumes, such as clover,
because they germinate more quickly and do not require inoculation. Annual ryegrass
is a good choice for small gardens in
Broadleaved plants are more
difficult to grow and manage than cereal grains and do not provide the
nitrogen-fixing benefits of legumes. Buckwheat is a frost-sensitive broadleaf
that is easy to grow in warm weather and does well as a summer cover crop. There
is no perfect cover crop. Each will have some drawbacks. Seeding dates should
be by mid-October at the latest.
|
Table 1. Buckwheat and Legumes |
|
Cover
Crop |
Type |
Characteristics |
Seeding
Rate |
When to |
|
Buckwheat |
Summer
annual |
Tolerates
many soil conditions |
50
lb |
After mid-May |
|
Cowpea |
Summer
annual |
Good
green manure crop |
30-40
lb |
After mid-May |
|
Crimson Clover |
Winter
annual |
Good
nitrogen producer |
12-20
lb |
Late August |
|
Flat Pea |
Long-lived
perennial |
Very
competitive, slow to establish, high nitrogen producer |
20-25
lb |
Late August |
|
Hairy Vetch |
Winter
annual |
High
nitrogen producer |
25-40
lb |
August
|
|
Medium
Red Clover |
Perennial |
Tolerant of many soil conditions |
10-15 lb |
March-May |
|
White Clover |
Perennial |
Widely
adapted, long-lived |
5-7
lb |
March-May |
|
Yellow-Blossom Sweet Clover |
Biennial |
Allelopathic,
bee pasture |
12-15
lb |
May |
|
Table 2. Grasses |
|
Cover
Crop |
Type |
Characteristics |
Seeding
Rate |
When to |
|
Annual
Rye Grass |
Winter
annual |
Germinates
quickly, competitive |
25-35
lb |
Mid-August
|
|
Cereal |
Winter annual |
Grows quickly, allelopathic |
60-120 lb |
October
|
|
Spring Oats |
Summer annual |
Quick growth, suppresses weeds |
30-60 lb |
March-April
|
|
Sorghum/Sudex |
Summer annual |
Quick growing, allelopathic |
30-40 lb |
May-June
|
|
Winter Wheat |
Winter annual |
Tall-growing living mulch |
60-120 lb |
October |
What’s the catch?
Like all good things, too mush of it
can be a problem. In this case, a cover
crop can become a weed crop. This is
particularly true if the cover crop is permitted to produce seed. The solution to this problem is to mow or till
the cover crop before the seed matures. In
the spring more than one mowing may be needed to keep seeds from forming. Also,
when the cover crop is mowed, turning it into the soil is much easier when
doing it by hand or tiller.
Please note this article is only meant
to raise awareness and interest in cover crops and by no means covers this broad
topic. For more information please
contact the WVU Extension Service.