More African Violet Care

Karen Stratton, Provisional KC Master Gardener 2005

Proper care of mature African violets, Saintphaulia, poses several challenges. As these plants age they can develop multiple crowns, or faces, which can crowd the plant, causing it to outgrow its designated space. These plants can also develop long, stalky necks with tufts of leaves at the top causing them to be misshapen, reducing their aesthetic appeal and flowering potential. Both of these problems can be easily managed and furthermore, they can be managed to your advantage to propagate new plants and to rejuvenate your old ones.

A multi-crowned plant has several distinct clumps complete with flowering tufts that may or may not have separate root systems. The crowns with separate root systems are the easiest to divide and repot. First, allow the intended plant to dry slightly so the compost is loose and the leaves are rubbery, preventing them from breaking easily when the plant is manipulated. Remove the plant from its pot, shake away any excess compost and expose the root ball. Ideally two distinct root systems will be seen but often the other crowns are merely offshoots of the main flower base and will need time to develop their own separate root system. Take a sharp knife and cut between the root systems or between the base flower and the offshoot. If there are existing roots on the crown, it can be placed directly into fresh compost. If the crown is an offshoot without its own root system, then it can be placed in water first to permit root development. Plant the crown into compost before the roots reach 0.5 inches in length. Both cuttings should be potted into 3½-inch pots and watered by placing in a dish of water and allowing the plant to wick the water upward. Then place the potted plants in a polyethylene bag or a Ziploc storage bag. This will reduce moisture loss and help establish these plants more quickly. But patience is required, as it will take at least six months before firm rooting takes place.

Long necking, as some authors refer to it, is another common problem of the mature African violet. Long necking refers to the plant that has never been repotted and has a long, stalky leafless stem with a tuft of leaves crowding its top. The plant is often twisted and bent over the rim of its pot. In this instance, repotting the plant into a larger container will not improve its misshapen appearance. Correction of this problem is called decapitation and requires a sharp knife and nerves of steel. The stalk must be cut through just above the soil surface, approximately 1½ inches below the last leaf stalk. All but eight leaves should be removed from the bottom of the crown and the stalk should be shaved into a cone and placed into a mixture of vermiculite and compost. Again, roots may be started in water first but the plant should be potted before these roots grow longer than 0.5 inches in length. This will prevent weaker water roots from forming which may prolong the successful transition into compost.

If decapitation seems too cruel a fate for your beloved African violet, then repotting may be a better solution. When a plant is repotted or root pruned, it is not transplanted into another larger container. Rather, it is taken from its same pot and the bottom 1/3 of the root ball is cut away. After placing a little fresh, moist compost into the bottom of the same pot, the plant with its remaining root ball can be returned to the same pot. More fresh compost is then placed around the exposed neck of the plant. This will encourage root development at the neck of the plant, reducing its stalky appearance. The advantage to this technique is that it allows you to reuse the same pot as opposed to transplanting the plant into a larger pot when space is limited.

Finally if your intention is to duplicate or propagate your beloved violet anew, then some of the following tips may prove beneficial. Start with a well-selected leaf. The leaf must be mature, usually from the crown’s second or third tier, and the plant it is chosen from should be well watered. This ensures a leaf full of sap, which can easily be removed from the main stem with a firm sideways tug. Then using a sharp knife, trim the stem at a 45^o slanting angle, to a length of 1.5 inches. This leaf can then be placed either in water or compost to begin rooting. Transitioning a cutting from water to compost can be difficult, so I prefer starting with compost and then place the cutting, container and all, into a polyethylene bag. This will preserve humidity, thus reducing stress on the plant and will encourage quicker root development.

Patience is again required as it may take as long as 15-18 months before your cutting begins to produce flowers. Propagation may not seem worth the effort now with violets being so readily commercially available. But the joy is not so much in the end result as it is in successfully mastering the technique and watching the plant as it grows from scratch. Again, remember, African violets are one of the easiest plants to care for and thankfully require little upkeep. The above can be used as a helpful guide to maximize your plant’s full potential and keep it thriving for years to come.

References:

Clements, Tony. African Violets, pp. 9-56. United Kingdom, David & Charles Books, 2000.

Hill, Joan and Goodship, Gwen. African Violets: The Complete Guide, pp. 47. United Kingdom, The Crowood Press Ltd., 2004.