A Beginner’s Guide to Growing African Violets

Karen Stratton, Provisional KC Master Gardener 2005

The African violet originated in East Africa and was discovered by a colonial official discharged to the then German outpost of Tanzania. This official was Baron Walter von St. Paul, from whom the species name is derived, Saintpaulia ionantha. This background proves useful when attempting to grow your own collection at home.

Consequently, temperate environments are ideal, with temperatures between 65-65 F. Generally, if you feel warm in the house, then your African violet will as well. If kept on a windowsill, make certain the sill does not approach 40F temperatures especially if a curtain is drawn that covers the sill at night. This will cause your violet to be trapped in that cold air space which it will not like!

Watering is a far simpler task if you start with the right pot. Through experience, I have found that a violet potted in a plastic or ceramic pot, not clay, with a watering trough attached, is easier to maintain. Simply water with tap water, not filtered or bottled water, at room temperature, filing the trough once every ten days or so and you will have success. Resist the urge to continuously moisten these plants. Again, recall that these are really tropical plants and can withstand drier conditions if their temperature, humidity and light are controlled.

Care should be taken, however, not to confuse watering with humidity. Yes, these plants prefer a humid environment, but it seems to be a less important factor in their growth than other elements. And for this we are grateful, as our homes tend to be centrally heated and provide approximately 30% humidity, as opposed to the 70% humidity they enjoy in Africa. The best way to control this is the home is to consider their placement. Kitchens and bathrooms are best for this reason alone. If space does not permit, then a tray of moistened pebbles or moistened sand placed close to the plants can help. The plant should not be set into the tray but elevated above it on another pot. Another remedy is to group several pots together. Collectively, they thrive because this elevates their relative humidity, lending truth to the phrase, “the more the merrier”.

While humidity can be less than ideal, a violet must have access to good lighting. It is the most important factor in the growth and bloom of a violet. Filtered light from a window is fine as long as it is not too strong. If a shadow is cast on the plant when you place your hand between the window and the plant, then the light is too strong. And if your purple violet fails to produce its lovely purple flowers, then likely too little light is the culprit. Since the Africa violet prefers equatorial lighting, darkness is equally as important in its survival as light. In the northern latitudes, as in West Virginia, the winters mean shorter days with less daylight and more importantly, decreased light intensity. This causes the plants to drift into a pseudo-dormant period. Most violets, however, can bloom year-round without experiencing a dormant period ever. But this takes more effort, requiring fluorescent lighting that allows for two tubes – one a “cool white” and the other a “warm white.” Ideal intensity for blooming is between 100-800fc, and wavelengths provided by both types of bulbs in a single light fixture would light that dark corner of your living room and encourage blooming color there, twice rewarding your efforts.

Fertilizing your African violet can encourage growth and bloom frequency as well. From March through October, a monthly feeding of fertilizer can be applied. Strive to use a liquid fertilizer with emphasis on the Phosphorus (P) and Potash (K) nutrients to encourage bloom rather than leaf growth. At our latitude, March through October represents the time of year the violet is experiencing highly active growth. If your end-table violet is exposed to florescent lighting year-round, then monthly fertilizing year round may be more appropriate as growth is not slowed by season fluctuations. I recommend liquid fertilizer because application is easy if you are using a pot with a watering trough. In this fashion, the water is absorbed upward into the dry soil, placing it near the root hairs, where it can best be utilized. Tablets or sticks pushed into dry compost near the flower crown on top of the soil risk burning the plant, and these may not dissolve as desired if the plant is watered from the trough with most of the moisture remaining at the bottom of the pot near the roots.

Finally, a good compost mixture can ensure that the nutrients get distributed more evenly throughout the life cycle of the plant. Several commercial compost mixtures are available for this purpose. However, if you decide to use a homemade recipe, some general guidelines should be observed. A mix of sphagnum moss peat or other peat substitute mixed in equal parts with vermiculite or perlite will provide a moistened base from which to start. This mix contains no nutrients however, and the plant will need fertilized regularly to ensure growth. As the plant matures, a slow-release fertilizer should be incorporated into the peat-vermiculite mix, using one third of each and then wetting all at least one day prior to use. Wetting the mix one day prior ensures more equal moisture throughout, preventing the roots form contact with an overly dry or overly wet patch of soil if it were used immediately.

My hope is that all the above information will help you maximize your joy from these charming flowers. But don’t become discouraged if at first glance the African violet appears to be a time consuming, hothouse flower to grow. That would be a great falsehood! The truest statement I have found in my research is that the African violet is a plant that thrives on neglect, and my own collection is proof positive of this fact.

References:

Clement, Tony, African Violets, pp. 9-56. United Kingdom, David and Charles Books, 2000

Hill, Joan and Goodship, Gwen. African Violets: The Complete Guide, pp 47. United Kingdom the Crowood Press, ltd., 2004